Sunday, November 15, 2009

europe ~ asia



one of my favorite things about living in üsküdar is that i usually have to cross the bosphorus to take care of some errand on istanbul's european side. not only do i get a nerdy thrill knowing that i'm crossing continents, but there's always an interesting parade of man made floating devices to look at as well. i board one of the 20 ferries that are on the water at any given time and ride alongside gargantuan oil tankers, eight story cruise ships, military destroyers, tugboats, and teeny fisherman boats.

on this particular rainy day though it was just the lone freighter ship and our little motör ferry.

Friday, October 16, 2009

T.G.I.T.F.F.- Turkish Triple Onion Soup/ Türkçe Soğan Çorba

A few weeks ago, K and I were both feeling under the weather so I whipped up this soup.



Along with being a mood panacea, I believe consuming as many onions and garlic as you can helps boost the immune system when you're feeling sick. While not a traditional Turkish dish, it was created IN TURKEY, so technically it is Turkish. But I hope its healing powers are universal. I've made it three times now and it's made us feel better, even if just to combat the colder weather.

Serving Size: 2

INGREDIENTS
The amounts are catered to my love of garlic and onions as well as an estimation of what would fit in my smallish pot so feel free to add or substitute where you see fit. This recipe is very flexible.

1 bulb of garlic sarmısak
3-4 white/yellow/red onions soğan
shallots soğancık (however many you want and can afford. they're a little smaller here and really inexpensive so I use about 10)
5-6 stems green onions yeşil soğan

turkish triple onion soup

2-3 carrots havuç
1/2 LB or 1 kilo button mushrooms mantar
1 tsp each of your choice dry herbs ot or 2-3 tsp fresh herbs. I used dry oregano, rosemary, sage, and thyme
2 bay leaves
3 Tbs olive oil zeytin yağ
3 Tbs unsalted butter terayği
salt toz and black pepper kara biber
6C stock/broth OR 6C water/su+2 boullion cubes bulyon
French bread loaf, sliced into rounds optional
Grated white cheese ( swiss, mozarrella, parmesean) optional

Other veggies that would be yummy to include would be leeks, celery, zucchini, or eggplant. I prefer keeping it down to a few vegetables though since the onions are the stars of the soup.

PREP
Mince garlic and set aside for at least 15 minutes (very important to do, since according to this article, garlic needs to sit for at least 15 minutes to maximize health benefits). Slice white/yellow/red onions into 1/4" thick half moon slices and shallots into 1/8" circles. Chop green onions and separate into three piles. I separate them because I like to add the first pile for initial flavor but since they lose their color so quickly I like to reserve the other piles to add later for brighter color. I also think adding them at different times adds more complex flavor.

Chop up rest of vegetables into 1/4" thick pieces.



COOK
Melt butter, olive oil in medium size stock pot over medium heat. Once butter begins to bubble a bit, turn heat to medium low and add white/yellow onions, shallots, garlic. Saute until onions are translucent, about 10 mins. Add herbs, salt, pepper and cook until fragrant.
Stir in carrots, green onion pile 1 and cook until relatively soft, about 5 mins.
Add mushrooms, cook until relatively soft, about 3 mins.
At this point there should be a decent amount of liquid on the bottom where all those delicious flavors are stewing. Add stock/water+bullion as well as the bay leaves.
Bring soup to a boil and then turn down to simmer for at least 30 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding green onion pile 2 halfway through simmering. Season with more salt and pepper to taste.
Remove bay leaves, Ladle soup into bowls and sprinkle final pile of green onions on top.

To take the soup to the next level, toast french bread rounds with your favorite grated melty white cheese in the oven to make cheesy croutons. We use kaşarli peynir, a turkish white cheese that is very similar to mozzarella in texture and swiss cheese in taste. Place on top of soup and enjoy a taste of Turkey!



If anyone makes it, let me know how it turns out!

Friday, September 25, 2009

camel circus

surfing the turkish cable channels, we recently stumbled upon this fantastic azerbaijan channel:



camel humps will always be strange to me.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

our killer view

it's like being greeted with brand new art every day. i can't stop taking pictures out our windows!

at sunrise


during the day



at sunset


at night


Friday, September 18, 2009

new place

our street


our home

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

a few days before we left


we actually got to ENJOY chicago.




am's malted french toast & kd's biscuits and gravy

kenneth's pork belly
taking brunch to the next level (at Jam) with friends.


they weren't all good, but this room...

Cy Twombly
cy twombly, art institute of chicago

Gerhardt Richter
gerhardt richter, art institute of chicago

Olafur Eliasson
olafur eliasson, museum of contemporary art

seeing art so good, i got emotional just being near them.

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

resuscitate and renew

after a year of wandering, i am heading back to Istanbul. i will be there for a whole year, starting a new chapter in my life, one that feels exciting and scary and very mysterious. while i have ideas and projects planned, i really don't know how my time there will pan out. but this time i feel ready to face that mystery and really embrace whatever might happen. it'll be strange to go back to a place that once seemed so exotic and foreign to me. now it just feels like moving back to the the old 'hood. but i know there's so much more to discover and learn about.

so much has happened this past year that this time last year, when i started this blog, now feels like ages ago. it's funny how you think time is flying by, but when you stop to really take stock of everything that's gone on, you feel like you've aged 10 years. when i look back on the (oh so few) entries i've written, i almost feel like i'm reading about someone else's life.

but, unlike the last time i was here, i am ready to really live there. i am ready to be open to what Istanbul is as a place, and not as a destination. this time, i really can't wait.